
June Taylor is something of a legend in the Bay Area foodie community. Her marmalades and preserves have been appearing in some of the best farmer’s markets and specialty shops for about three decades. I first came across June Taylor Jam products at the Ferry Terminal Building in San Francisco. Through word of mouth, her acclaim as a master jam-maker has spread, yet June herself has maintained a relatively low profile and a small production.

June has been very deliberate about maintaining the small scale in her company. I was fortunate enough to spend a delightful afternoon with her in her kitchen on 4th Street in Berkeley. As I looked around, it was clear to me that June believes in making jam slowly and by hand. Her kitchen is utterly devoid of cooking appliances. There are two large preparation tables where fruit is cut by hand into small pieces. There is also a large stove where jams are cooked over low heat in relatively small pots. “You can taste the difference in the jam,” June says. “Every spoonful of my marmalades has a special kick to it. I love that people experience something wonderful when they taste my products.”

Her small shop and kitchen space on 4th Street is called The Still Room. When I entered it, I felt a sense of stillness and peace. There are delicate flowers and branches interspersed between the bottles of jam. In the kitchen area, there is plenty of open space, with neat trays of jams and peels in the corners. Sunlight pours into the space from the two large skylights.

While the name The Still Room reflects June’s peaceful and naturalistic aesthetics, it actually refers to something more historical. “It’s a play on words,” June says with a smile. The term ‘Still Room’ refers to a space found in aristocratic houses in Europe, where the ladies of the house would hone their domestic crafts by making delicate cosmetic or edible products. June describes it in this way, “In the past, women would forage their properties for fruit, flowers and herbs to make the very kinds of things that I make here. I see my Still Room as a way of learning about these traditions of the past, honoring them and bringing them into the modern world.”
June has an intellectual interest in jam making. She began her career as an academic in London, researching sociology in various universities. Her focus, funnily enough, was the study of occupational happiness. “It’s ironic. At the age of 26, after researching for several years, I decided I was not completely satisfied with academia, so I decided to travel.” She came to Berkeley, met the man she would later marry and decided that she was interested in the food culture.
When she took an interest in fruit preservation she immediately went back to the library. “I examined antiquarian cookbooks and manuals. I studied ancient cooking techniques. I brought this knowledge with me to my jam making process.” Her jam making brings together both her love of nature and physical processes with her academic passions. “Jam making is a good marriage for me. It brings together my mind and my body. It has made me very happy.”
These ancient techniques have not been primarily about marmalades and jams. In the past, jams were just one method among many to preserve fruit and make it delicious all year around. In her kitchen, June has revived many fruit preservation methods. She makes candied peels, syrups and pickles. She also makes fruit cheeses. These are highly concentrated fruit that have been molded into different shapes. They can be sliced, like cheese, which explains their name. June discovered this technique through her study of traditional British preservation technique. Together, these methods allows her to use every part of the fruit, so that none of it is wasted.

June Taylor set the stage for the current renaissance in jam making that is sweeping over the Bay Area. However, while other jam makers are trying to scale up their businesses, June is quite happy to focus on maintaining her relatively small production. She is fortunate that she already has a solid base of loyal customers. It is hard work making her jams. For her to maintain her level of quality, it takes a great deal of time and effort. Even her letterpress labels are attached to the bottles by hand.

June is deeply committed to doing every part of the process by hand and in small quantities. ”You are still young,” she told me. “You may not realize that we are coming out of an age of industrial food production. My whole philosophy goes against that. I want to respect the fruit. I want to respect the farmers, whom I consider my peers. I want to respect the traditions of jam making that have been passed down for centuries, but that are in danger of being forgotten.”

June Taylor Jam products are available in several retail locations listed on her webpage. However, I highly recommend visiting her shop at the Still Room in Berkeley. It is located at 2207 4th Street in Berkeley. I brought away with me candied peels, fruit cheeses, syrups and jams. Check back soon for reviews of all of these products.

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